Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category

Divided by a common language …. and other similarities

14th December 2010 by helen

It’s one of those classics isn’t it?  As if I couldn’t remember the old tomato/potato song, I had it quoted to me in a queue in Subway by a seven year old the other day.  And my poor old spell-checker’s going crazy at “the gray color of the water in the harbor”.  All made worse by Paul lapsing into a fake American accent every five minutes.

So, after 4-5 months in Central Asia, and not having forgotten ‘home’ of course, I’m still marvelling at the differences here in the big US.

We’ve already got used to asking for the ‘rest room’ when we think toilet.  I’m still a little conscious of saying ‘gas’ instead of petrol or fuel, and ‘bucks’ instead of dollars.  It caused some confusion when I asked for boiled sweets at one Alaskan service station – seems I should have said ‘hard candy’, although that product hardly exists here compared to the quantity of soft candy on the racks.  And what looks deceptively like Werther’s Originals on the packet, trust me, isn’t!!  Finally, after trying some medicinal and unsuckable wint-o-greens and mouth puckering fruit sours we found one type of fruit flavoured boiled sweet (or should that be flavored?).

In the meantime we are learning to call WiFi ‘wireless’ and a hoover by its technically correct term, ‘vacuum’.  While we have learned to call the torch by its American name ‘flashlight’, we haven’t yet worked out what to call our head-torches.  We’ve been through the misunderstandings between lorry and truck and secretly marvelled at hearing the words faucet and sidewalk.  And we’ve wandered round malls instead of shopping centres.

In the meantime we’re switching back and forth between Centigrade and Farenheit like old pros.  One of the advantages of advancing age is being old enough to fairly painlessly remember and understand Farenheit.  Converting US gallons (not the same as the old UK gallon of course) to litres is going to take a bit longer I think.  At least the road signs being in miles is familiar, even if signs saying “1500 feet” is more of a challenge having got used to the British schizophrenic combing of miles and metres.

one of those big trucks

one of those big trucks

But I couldn’t talk about America without mentioning size.  Taking three days to drive the length of one Interstate, and crossing three times zones, puts the M1 & M6 into perspective a bit.  And there are conurbations the length of the circumference of the M25. I finally understand why American tourists ‘do’ London in a day, and England in a fortnight.  Why wouldn’t they?  The Microsoft office complex in Seattle alone is, for those who know it, some six times the size of the Pfizer site in Kent, or the size of any small town in England.  Landscaped and well maintained, with it’s own shops and gymnasium, it looks for all the world like a utopian housing estate consisting entirely of five storey apartment blocks.  Yet this is an estate inhabited only by day, when 80,000 workers populate this town within a town.

As Brits we have images of huge plates of food and chronic obesity.  Well, sorry to disappoint but while obesity is a problem for some it’s nowhere near as bad as news back home would suggest, at least not in the areas we’ve seen so far, and the healthy eating message has had an impact on meal sizes.  Even so, it is stunning just how many fast food joints are competing for trade.  Wendy’s Denny’s, McDonalds, Subway, Taco Bell, Burger King, all jostle side by side with other smaller and lesser known chains, outnumbering other businesses by two to one in some places.  None are full and it’s common to find there are more staff than customers much of the time.  Have we only passed through at the ‘wrong time of day’ or is this an impact of the recession?  We wonder how these businesses still survive.

Even the serviettes are bigger here, commonly as large as the largest in the UK.  We laugh as we think of the café staff in Central Asia carefully cutting off the edges of their already small serviettes to create four even smaller ones!  Bizarrely however, the only thing we’ve found smaller here is the squares of toilet paper.

Despite innumerable laws and signs telling you what you can and cannot do, the ever invasive ‘safety’ and ‘protectionist’ messages so common in England are not so common here.  The speed camera, where it is found, is still called a speed camera, not washed in the nannying term ‘safety’ camera.  However, the huge and punitive fines for speeding ($1,000) promote safe and defensive driving.  Sure, you can expect any American to tell you there’s lots of bad driving here, but so far we’ve not seen it.  It’s rare to be overtaken when you are already driving at the speed limit and tailgating is almost non-existent.  Fines are doubled when incurred in areas of road works, and if you should hit a road worker you have an automatic one year prison sentence and $10,000 fine.  The responsibility to drive safely is not to be taken lightly then.

It’s great to pick up on the sense of community spirit and national pride here.  To be American is to be proud to be American.  Everywhere you go are signs supporting the military.  Even in little ways, like half price or free coffees for serving military and veterans.  Don’t assume that means people support the wars, they don’t.  People seem more interested in and aware of politics here.  Perhaps that’s why they recognise is that it’s not the men and women doing the job who make the decisions.  To wear the uniform is largely to be respected here.

For a little trip down memory lane we stop at the drug counter in the supermarket, or at the drug store (chemist), and gaze in awe at the smallest bottles of aspirin which contain 50 tablets.  No protectionist fears here on that score!

To end my first impressions of America: Imagine coping with public toilets after so long in Central Asia.  All gleaming porcelain and private cubicles.  Toilets that flush as you open the door.  When you leap back at the shock of that happening you inadvertently lean on the sink and trigger the automatic hand soap dispenser and water gushes from the ‘faucet’.  As you swing round to see what’s happening your coat tails set off the hand dryer.  After fleeing in initial fear you creep back in to find the bizarre instruction to put your toilet paper down the toilet and not in the bin next to it.  Sitting gingerly on this monster that seems to have a mind of its own you are alarmed when it flushes just because you sit down, shift your weight or stand up.  And then flushes yet again as you walk out of the cubicle.  And not just a little flush, but a great grasping, vacuum inducing force, pulling the contents of the pan down, down, down and away.  Who needs colonic irrigation?

Wot No Coffee!!

9th December 2010 by helen

Amazing – after our first few weeks in the US, staying firstly in Anchorage and then travelling and relying on fast food outlets for sustenance, I was fast getting all coffee’d out.  I mean, I hardly drink the stuff anyway, but when I do I soon get ‘wired’.  Asking for decaf is no solution as that usually draws blank looks.  And even the taste of coffee becomes tiresome if you don’t normally drink it.

So what a joy it has been (for us) to find our hosts while we have been in Seattle are non-coffee drinkers!!  In fact, they’ve been tea drinkers.

Carl in particular is fond of a good cup of tea.  His favourite is Yorkshire Gold.  He was seriously dismayed to find his stock seriously dwindled when he and Marilyn returned from their holiday (while we were house sitting).  Yorkshire Gold is not so readily available in the US.  We owe him a box of tea. Sorin’s home too has been predominently tea, with a selection of ‘fruit teas’ in the cup too.

teahouse kuan yinAfter living in England for five years, and been introduced to the English tradition of tea drinking, Marcus has gone on to run his own tea house in Seattle – Teahouse Kuan Yin.  I had an amazing lesson in the fine art of tea making and drinking from Marcus the first morning of our stay with him and Denice.

Understanding the nuances of the impact of different plants, growing climates, soil conditions and compositions was one thing.  Appreciating the impact of the first, second, third, fourth (and more) steeping of one heap of ‘leaves’ was another. I say ‘leaves’ but in fact there are more than just leaves in the leaves: buds form an important part of the ‘tealeaf’ mix. 

These are not the finely chopped pieces of leaf bagged up for tea bags, virtually the only way left to buy tea in most places in England and here in America.  They are real leaves, dried and rolled.  When steeped in hot (or cold in some cases) water many reconstitute into their original easily recongiseable leaves.

Did you know that if you make two cups of tea from one tea bag, the first cup contains all the caffeine, while the second cup gets all the tanins?  I’d never even thought of it.  Now I understand why, in the old days, tea was poured only half a cup at a time, and then each cup was filled in reverse order.  I always thought it was just about the strength of flavour of the first and last pour.  Now I know that it ensured everyone got a share of the caffeine and a share of the tanins too.

If there is one thing I have learned, it is that tea is at least as complex a subject as fine wines, scotches and coffees.

Tea has of course been a subject of some discussion during our travels so far.  The best tea experience we had was in Kazakhstan where tea was usually made in a pot and served at the table.  Many teapots contained an integral strainer that kept the tea leaves contained within the water (teabags not being so popular there as in UK or US).  This was true of most places whether in the city or more rural locations. 

However, from our hosts in Almaty we also learned that tea should only be poured in small quantities - half a cup at a time.  That way it is possible to drink the tea while it is still hot and the cup is regularly refreshed by the host.

What is called tea in Mongolia bears no representation to what we might have known as tea.  Those who understand this refer to their drink as ‘milk tea’.  It is usually lukewarm, lightly flavoured, watered down milk.  At least we can say we tried it – once.

Russian tea is a haphazard affair.  In the cities there is a more Western style of serving tea.  In rural areas teabags are often left in the mug to stew (just like we often find in England), while both tea and coffee are loaded with huge heaps of sugar.  Repeating several times “byez sahaar” and getting nods and confirmation of what you mean is no guarantee against the reflex action of sugaring the tea.

And so, as we think about continuing our journey, I am wondering what new tea experiences await us?  In the meantime, special thanks to Carl for sharing his prized Yorkshire Gold, and to Marcus for a fascinating lesson and a new understanding of what I now realise the English have forgotten how to do – make tea.

So near yet so far

18th November 2010 by helen

Tuesday 15th November: After waking in the National State Park campsite we realised we couldn’t pay the site fee as it’s cash or check (US spelling of course now we are in the US) only and we only have a couple of dollars in cash, so we slipped out of the park nice and early and headed on our way.  Does this make us criminals?!

It’s not far into Seattle and we soon find ourselves on a highway driving past the port from where we can see Landy’s ship (CMA-CMG Ravine) in port and almost completely unloaded with all the containers on the quay.  We wave and say hello to Landy as we pass.  So near and yet so far.

After hopping around the coffee shops trying to access internet without breaching parking regulations while we keep up communications with our agent about what happens next, we are relieved to be able to meet up with Carl & Marilyn, our expedition hosts for the next few days while we continue to negotiate the vagaries of the US temporary car import system!!  More on that in a later blog.

Our Seattle stop enabled the Jeep’s transmission to be fixed.  This gave us time to have a quick explore of Seattle and we have seen the enormous Microsoft ‘city’.  At a glance it almost looks like an entire housing estate but it’s not housing, it’s all offices.  Some 80,000 people work for Microsoft here.  They have their own gym, shops, eateries, etc.  The grounds are landscaped and the whole is a very pleasant environment.  Apart from that we’ve seen the Google offices and driven over the floating concrete bridge that crosses the huge lake in the middle of Seattle.  We’ve also shopped at Costco, in effect a warehouse outlet for the individual shopper moving bulk storage from the shop to the garage.

But still we needed to move on and quickly.  With the Jeep fixed, and feeling utterly helpless, on Friday 18th we took a deep breath, handed Landy’s precious keys over to our US agent to ensure he is able to be moved around the port to meet the various US port/import procedures.  And so it was we headed out on to Interstate 90 heading south east to Florida.