Posts Tagged ‘oasis’

Leaving the Oasis

10th September 2010 by helen

Friday 10th September

Our final day at the Oasis.  Paul was still fixing bits on the car, extra stowage nets and such like.  The car heater is now working although the Eberspacher heater (the one we want to heat the tent as we get further north) is not.  Re-packing the car is a major event but at the end of it we have reduced our luggage by two storage boxes which we leave behind at the guesthouse.  We are safe in the knowledge that if the locals do not recycle them then another passing overlander may well be able to make use of them.

By the time we are ready to leave it is late and dark.  We still need to be in UB tomorrow to get some welding done and a tyre changed.  We could put the tent back up but we make a mad decision.  We have been here so long that psychologically we need to move on.  We will leave anyway and sleep in the car somewhere in the city.  We find the outdoor store on the other side of town and stop in the small parking space at the front of the store.  This will do for tonight.  Except that two policeman see us as a soft target and we end up being ‘fined’ for making an illegal turn.  We’d passed the car park, done a u-turn and then turned left into the car park.  It’s the left turn they said was wrong.  We think they were on the make but they had the upper hand and it cost us $50.  Should’ve stayed where we were!

Campsite – Ulaanbaatar

An Inspiring Oasis?

1st September 2010 by Paul

“We’re heading for the Oasis” they said. 

These people we met on the road who spoke something of our language, and were travelling overland, by whatever means, all said the same.  Initially, we imagined a place with green palm trees and pools of refreshing clean water.  But quickly we discovered they referred to the Oasis Cafe and Guest House in the eastern suburbs of Ulaanbaatar.  Not quite such a romantic image, nor, you may imagine, a destination so vital.

But in the same way that moths are attracted to bright lights, and magnets drawn irresistibly to steel, people who travel overland are drawn here, as if by some invisible and powerful force. 

  • Four Romanian motorcyclists in the middle of driving 12,000 miles through Russia to raise money for children’s charities.
  • Two young couples attempting to beat the world record for the longest distance ever travelled by quad bike – they’ll succeed if they get as far as Moscow.  I have no doubt they’ll make it.
  • A small team of Austrians driving a Nissan hatchback converted to electrical propulsion right around the world.
  • Lee the plumber, a hulk of a man from Birmingham, with his wife Helen and eleven year old home tutored daughter Beverley, stopping off for essential repairs to their 1992 Defender – they are driving from France to Australia via China and the Indonesian islands, on their way to a new life in a country they’ve never visited, where they know no-one, and for which they have no visa – ‘yet’ says Lee.
  • Gerald, a lone 45 year old motorcyclist, nursing a 1996 Kawasaki trial bike all the way from England to the Russian far east.  And from there? – ‘who knows?’ he says.
  • Ann and Joe, both in their twenties and from Belgium, on their way around the world in an ageing Nissan Patrol.

Like a golden thread running through fine cloth, there is something that runs through the character of those we have met here.  Here we have met people who believe that the impossible can be made possible.  Here we have found people who, often against the odds, are wresting life out of life.

And perhaps there is something in the notion that an invisible and powerful force draws them here. 

Do you ever feel that force? 

Do you hear it calling? 

What will you do?

Tug of the Land

25th August 2010 by helen

Tuesday 24th August

After breakfast at the ger camp and Paul finishing off the repairs on the fuel tank we took part in one of our few ‘tourist’ activities – a camel ride.  We were led to an oasis, an island of lush green grass, pools of water and frogs nestling amongst the sand dunes, before heading back to the camp.  It took no more than an hour but my nether regions were declaring very loudly that an hour on a rock hard saddle was more than enough.  Coming back from the camel ride we were amazed to see the remains of a hedgehog run over on one of the sand tracks.  Of all the space here in Mongolia the hedgehog can still manage to get run over!!

Then it was off to the dunes with Landy.  Paul’s aim was to get in a bit of practice at dune driving, hopefully get stuck and have to dig ourselves out.  Goal achieved (the latter part taking about an hour) we headed back towards the ger camp and the main road to Dalandzagad where it is vital we get some internet access to order spare parts from Foundry 4×4 to be waiting for us at Ulaanbaatar.

Just a minute or two later, as we crested the brow of the first dune on our way back, we saw right in front of us a tractor struggling to pull a cart heavily laden with a packed up ger.  The cart is stuck in the sand, the wheels of the tractor are spinning in the sand, and the children of the family are frantically scrabbling at the sand in front of the cart’s wheels trying to help free the cart even as the tractor is pulling it.  The family’s dog and cat wander round

We stop and pull out our Dyneema rope provided by Goodwinch, hook it up to the cart and, with both us and the tractor pulling, help free the cart.

Then the tractor breaks down.  The men are desperately trying to restart the engine by hand.  Occasionally it fires and once or twice

Landy tows a tractor and a trailer over soft sand

Landy tows a tractor and a trailer over soft sand

 it even starts, only to stop again.  We’re not sure what we can do but we sit and wait.  Eventually it’s obvious there’s only one thing we can do.  Paul reverses Landy back over the sand, hooks up the Dyneema rope on to the front of the tractor.  Then, with Landy in low range gear, he slowly begins to reverse.  Landy’s own wheels are spinning in the loose sand, but the General Grabber AT2 tyres are able to get enough purchase to keep Landy moving.  The rope tightens and the tractor begins to move, just fast enough to for the tractor driver to bump start his engine.  A cheer goes up all round.

This surely has to be a headline: Land Rover Defender bump starts a tractor by towing in reverse on soft sand.

However it’s not over yet.  Paul pulls Landy forward as the tractor reverses back and hooks up to the cart.  Then, still in reverse, on soft sand, Landy pulls not only the tractor but the cart which contains a ger and all the family’s possessions, until they are free of the soft sand.

New headline: Land Rover Defender tows tractor and whole house!! 

(Did I mention we still have a dodgy water pump?)

Drama over it’s back on the road again to Dalandzadgad.

Campsite – just past Bayandalay

Distance travelled – 138 km